Sep 052011
 

Twenty-four hours a day, you can find something interesting at Burning Man.  But the body needs sleep, and for this you need a shelter.  Do not – and I cannot stress this enough – do not bring a regular tent to the desert.  You will not sleep.  [I’m talking about the nylon or polyester, non-insulated, non-opaque variety of tent that most of us use when camping out under the trees, by the lake.  Hereon-in, I’ll just called a “tent.”]

A quick note on when to sleep:  Sunrise and Sunset are beautiful in the desert; you should see them as often as possible.  The parties happen at night, they are loud and bright and mind-blowing; you want to see them.  The ice sales only happen in limited hours during the day, usually 9am-6pm, and the food -whether made at your camp or gifted by other camps – comes out during the day; you need to eat and keep your supplies chilled.  Which leaves many people wondering, “When can I sleep?”  That’s easy:  you should sleep between 4:30 and 5:45 am, and between 11:20 am and 1:05 pm.  That’s how you’ll miss the least.   [As a nationally ranked sleeper myself, training for the Olympics, I maintain practice even during the Burn - but I do ratchet down my standard 10.5 hours a night to a lean 8.  The sacrifices I must make....]  For those of you who can’t survive on three hours a night (or don’t have the necessary drugs) you can expand those hours, but the general time frame is the same:  deep night and high noon.

During the night when all heat has radiated away you shiver in your furs, and you want one thing:  a warm, draft-less place to sleep.  Sadly, the thin fabric of a tent provides no insulation, leaving you only as warm as you can get with your sleeping bag and that dreadlocked trustafarian who followed you back to camp.  No sleep for you.  (and kick that fool out on the didgeridoo… have some pride)

During the day when the sun burns down and drains your energy, you want one thing:  a cool, dark place to lie down and sleep off whatever chemicals and adventures kept you up the past twenty hours.  Again, a tent in the desert provides none of those things; rather, it is what you might call a “hotbox.”  The ‘roof’ lets through light, the ‘walls’ block any breeze, and you toss and turn, baking like a dirt-covered loaf of bread.  Gritty, sweaty, dirt-bread.  No sleep for you.  (Also, very unpleasant.)

Now you’re exhausted and shivering or sweating.  Let’s skip discussing the ever-present noise, the ever-present dust, and the not-so-ever-present-but-it-happens downpour against which a tent provides almost no protection.  We’ll also skip the lack of privacy in a tent if you want to, let’s say, change your underwear.  (Or put it on in the first place – I’m not judging here.)  These all make your Burn a little more exhausting, a little less fun.

You need a shelter that blocks the sun during the day, maintains heat during the night, is waterproof, dust-proof, allows breezes when it’s stuffy but seals up tight when needed, and cuts off at least some of the noise.  What you want is a yurt.

Continue reading »

 Posted by at 1:40 am
Mar 292011
 

We’re absolutely screwed.

It’s well known that the next war between major powers will take place – in part if not completely – in cyberspace.  The US has tasked the NSA and the DoD with creating a Cyber Command division to protect our networks, while political attacks are already common in the rest of the world.

Now the Chinese have a new, and honestly quite devastating weapon. [update: turns out it's Japanese... my apologies to 1.3 billion Chinese.  No hard feelings, right?]

This Chinese Japanese weapon is brilliantly designed:  it spreads virally by email and social networking links; it does not trigger antiviral programs; hits PCs, Macs, and even Linux systems; there is no known antidote; and it attacks the user instead of the computer – creating lapses of almost two minutes (and often much longer) where absolutely no work can be performed, not even games.

The code name for this devastating attack is Red Panda, and if you’re feeling particularly hardy you can test yourself against the attack by following that link.  But I warn you, it is merciless and unstoppable.  One internet company has already been compromised.

Sadly, culpability for the weaponization of the internet may rest on our shoulders; it turns out that Americans fired the first shot in 1990.

 Posted by at 5:43 pm
Nov 102010
 

Remember that last post from May 5th which falsely claimed I’m still in Guatemala for… oh, the past six months? Yeah, that was pretty much a lie. Not when I wrote it – it was fairly accurate for a week or two, but then I returned to the United States (via Guatemala City and the Belize airport) for a family issue, and haven’t left the country since.

So what have I been doing? Besides the family gathering, I helped move a friend into his new home, worked at a childrens’ camp twice, helped out the parents with some building projects, visited friends in Seattle, hiked around Mt Rainier and in the Columbia River Gorge, drove up and down I-5 from San Francisco to Seattle and back, attended two weddings, and my first ever Burning Man. On the bus from Reno back to San Francisco I sat next to a cowboy with a sense of humor and shared a shot of bourbon.

God, it’s great to be unemployed!

And rest assured, I’m eating plenty of breakfasts. But the fact is, I’m ridiculously slow at updating this blog. Just in case anyone’s actually reading this thing. Sorry.

 Posted by at 10:22 am
May 152010
 

One of the downsides of the decorative,  flashback-inducing 1970′s school buses serving as public transportation in most of the country:  1970′s emissions.  So a bus that looks as fun and modern as this:

The second-to-last clash a bug will ever see

Continue reading »

 Posted by at 8:42 pm
May 052010
 

A quick note about where I am right now:  I’m living in San Pedro, a small town on Lake Atitlan and have been here for almost three months, with day trips to the nearby towns, including Antigua.

Three months is a LONG TIME considering I planned to see all of Central and South America by this summer (which is not going to happen, by the way), so why haven’t I moved on?

Three big reasons:

First, the living is easy. The Guatemalan Quetzal is currently trading with the US Dollar at 8:1, which means I can get the fanciest dinner in town for less than $10.  Cocktails run from $1-3 before any specials or happy hour (seriously, $1.25 for a mojito loaded with fresh mint… how can you not?!), and my hotel room is $3 per night.  See below for what that gets you.

¡Segundo, porque yo no hablaba español!  San Pedro has a large gringo population which helps when your Spanish… needs help.  There are a dozen Spanish Schools offering one-on-one instruction with prices ranging from $65-$110 (USD) per 20 hour week.  I found a couple great teachers my second week here, and have been banging my head against the various tenses with mixed results ever since.  Once you’re comfortable speaking Spanish, you can still drop by Gringolandia (as it’s known) to replenish your English, your drinking, your Hollywood movie, and your non-Guatemalan dietary needs.

Third, a picture from 5:30 in the morning this past Sunday, stepping out onto the balcony of my $3/night hotel room:

Click on the photograph to see it in better detail.

Not to say that there aren’t problems to be found here (the local Cocodes, the roving packs of dogs howling all night, and the roosters that can’t tell time to name but a few), but the pluses definitely outweigh the minuses.  I’ll be sad to leave.

 Posted by at 8:37 pm
May 022010
 

Proving my contention that I’m really not a geek, I was completely unable to figure out why comments and some other issues weren’t working properly after I “went live” with this blog the first time.  After banging my head against the monitor for a month, I called out for help and James put in the [embarrassingly simple] fix.

Now I just have to publish some entries.

Fair warning:  I may back-date some postings to reflect the general time when I conceived the topic, or took the pictures.  Yes, it’s cheating – but I’m not exactly reporting for the New York Times.

 Posted by at 12:30 pm
Apr 162010
 

A typical Guatemalan Breakfast:

The “typical” breakfast in these parts consists of eggs (fried or scrambled are the two most common preparations), beans (refried), plantain (fried), some queso blanco (not fried – a white cheese, with a taste somewhere between cottage cheese and feta), and corn tortillas (also not fried, but only edible when hot).

Living here I’ve grown to love this heavy, greasy start to my day, though I usually supplement with a plate of fruit (it’s all so fresh here, how can you not?!).  Occasionally I’ll go a little insane and revert to my one-and-a-half breakfast practices of yore… Continue reading »

 Posted by at 12:40 pm
Apr 052010
 

This is embarrassing.

I’ve heard that my current locale – the stunning shores of Lake Atitlan – was a MAJOR coffee producer.  So a little while back I went walking around, looking for the stuff – but where was all the coffee hiding?  All I could see, covering most of the land, were these little green shrubs with some white flowers.  No coffee plants, no burros with sacks on their backs, no Juan Valdez (though he’s Colombian, which may explain his absence here in Guatemala…), no nuthin’.

Then it occurred to me:  what if these unremarkable shrubs were coffee plants?  And sure enough, hiding just below the leaves were these little berries that, when peeled, had a very familiar looking seed inside. Continue reading »

 Posted by at 1:29 pm
Jan 312010
 

Few people knew I planned to start a blog of my trip, and fewer still actually knew the address before I went to press, so for that handful of you who were actually waiting: sorry for taking so long!

Though I left the country just before the end of 2009, that first month of travel was more of a vacation with friends than a true voyage of adventure. (and it what a glorious send-off: weeks of sunrises and sunsets, and little else to concern me in Caye Caulker Belize!) My first day alone was January 25th, in Flores Guatemala – a city on the shore of Lake Petén Itzá with a tiny European island dropped into the water like a lure for tourists. (and it works; the tourism industry thrives on that little patch of cobblestones)

Walking across the bridge and up into the non-tourist part of town I explore the market, clearly serving a very agricultural community. Between the grocery stores and tortillerias one finds bridle shops, feed stores, and more than a few chicks to admire.

Flores Chicks

Continue reading »

 Posted by at 10:19 pm