May 052010
 

A quick note about where I am right now:  I’m living in San Pedro, a small town on Lake Atitlan and have been here for almost three months, with day trips to the nearby towns, including Antigua.

Three months is a LONG TIME considering I planned to see all of Central and South America by this summer (which is not going to happen, by the way), so why haven’t I moved on?

Three big reasons:

First, the living is easy. The Guatemalan Quetzal is currently trading with the US Dollar at 8:1, which means I can get the fanciest dinner in town for less than $10.  Cocktails run from $1-3 before any specials or happy hour (seriously, $1.25 for a mojito loaded with fresh mint… how can you not?!), and my hotel room is $3 per night.  See below for what that gets you.

¡Segundo, porque yo no hablaba español!  San Pedro has a large gringo population which helps when your Spanish… needs help.  There are a dozen Spanish Schools offering one-on-one instruction with prices ranging from $65-$110 (USD) per 20 hour week.  I found a couple great teachers my second week here, and have been banging my head against the various tenses with mixed results ever since.  Once you’re comfortable speaking Spanish, you can still drop by Gringolandia (as it’s known) to replenish your English, your drinking, your Hollywood movie, and your non-Guatemalan dietary needs.

Third, a picture from 5:30 in the morning this past Sunday, stepping out onto the balcony of my $3/night hotel room:

Click on the photograph to see it in better detail.

Not to say that there aren’t problems to be found here (the local Cocodes, the roving packs of dogs howling all night, and the roosters that can’t tell time to name but a few), but the pluses definitely outweigh the minuses.  I’ll be sad to leave.

 Posted by at 8:37 pm
Apr 162010
 

A typical Guatemalan Breakfast:

The “typical” breakfast in these parts consists of eggs (fried or scrambled are the two most common preparations), beans (refried), plantain (fried), some queso blanco (not fried – a white cheese, with a taste somewhere between cottage cheese and feta), and corn tortillas (also not fried, but only edible when hot).

Living here I’ve grown to love this heavy, greasy start to my day, though I usually supplement with a plate of fruit (it’s all so fresh here, how can you not?!).  Occasionally I’ll go a little insane and revert to my one-and-a-half breakfast practices of yore… Continue reading »

 Posted by at 12:40 pm
Apr 052010
 

This is embarrassing.

I’ve heard that my current locale – the stunning shores of Lake Atitlan – was a MAJOR coffee producer.  So a little while back I went walking around, looking for the stuff – but where was all the coffee hiding?  All I could see, covering most of the land, were these little green shrubs with some white flowers.  No coffee plants, no burros with sacks on their backs, no Juan Valdez (though he’s Colombian, which may explain his absence here in Guatemala…), no nuthin’.

Then it occurred to me:  what if these unremarkable shrubs were coffee plants?  And sure enough, hiding just below the leaves were these little berries that, when peeled, had a very familiar looking seed inside. Continue reading »

 Posted by at 1:29 pm
Jan 312010
 

Few people knew I planned to start a blog of my trip, and fewer still actually knew the address before I went to press, so for that handful of you who were actually waiting: sorry for taking so long!

Though I left the country just before the end of 2009, that first month of travel was more of a vacation with friends than a true voyage of adventure. (and it what a glorious send-off: weeks of sunrises and sunsets, and little else to concern me in Caye Caulker Belize!) My first day alone was January 25th, in Flores Guatemala – a city on the shore of Lake Petén Itzá with a tiny European island dropped into the water like a lure for tourists. (and it works; the tourism industry thrives on that little patch of cobblestones)

Walking across the bridge and up into the non-tourist part of town I explore the market, clearly serving a very agricultural community. Between the grocery stores and tortillerias one finds bridle shops, feed stores, and more than a few chicks to admire.

Flores Chicks

Continue reading »

 Posted by at 10:19 pm